Friday, September 28, 2012

Golgulsa Templestay - Monks, Meditating & More!

The beautiful Pagoda at Golgulsa ( 골굴사 -  lit. Stone Buddha Temple) 20km East of Gyeongju. 

Last weekend I finally managed to do something I'd been dying to do since I got here (or, rather, since I found out a few years back from a friend that it was actually possible to do) - I went to stay with the monks in a Temple for the weekend! I'd actually looked in to doing a temple stay a few times, but the timing had never been right, especially as I knew that where I really wanted to stay was Golgulsa, a Silla Dynasty (1st-10th cent AD) temple located nearly 5 hours away from Gwangju. I lucked out this past weekend however, as I was free and our dear Gwangju Tour Guide Pedro just happened to have a trip planned! (As a note, there are a number of temples in Korea which welcome foreigners and almost all allow native Koreans to stay for some meditative cleansing. To find one for yourself, click here and click on 'English' in the top right corner.) The reason I'd chosen Golgulsa above all the other temples was because, not only are you expected to meditate, observe the monks, do community work, join a traditional Buddhist meal (called 발우공양 - Barugongyang) and wake up at 4am to partake in the 108 ceremonial bows and chanting service (more fun than you might think!) as at all temples, staying at Golgulsa also requires that you join the monks in their Sunmudo (선무도), an ancient zen Buddhist meditative martial art, training!

Did I mention that the monks also train in archery? 'Cause they do!
They grow a number of their own crops.

And have horses!

A view of their training grounds.

Hiking up the trail to the temple proper with some of my fellow Gwangju-ites.

Sunmudo demonstration. These are done daily and are free for any and all visitors (though donations are welcome).
Notice the sign. Even temples are not immune to politics. It claims Dokdo Island (ownership disputed with Japan) as Korean.

So awesome.

Training: Bear-walking down a steep slope.


The trainees noticed my camera.

And decided to impress!

 While the fact that Golgulsa is the home of Sunmudo was certainly a draw, another was the beauty and history of the temple itself.

You can see one of the shrines through the holes in the rock.

The stone Buddha, carved in the 6th century when Buddhism was still just making it's mark on Korea .
After being taught some archery and observing the Sunmudo demonstration, it was time to join the monks in a delicious vegetarian meal before being taught about their customs and practices and joining in their evening chanting service and sunmudo training.

Practising our moves
After that, it was swiftly to bed - ondol style of course - in order to be up for the morning's service.

I, unfortunately, have no pictures of the morning's chanting or meditation - both seated and walking - services. Something  felt wrong about having a camera at those. Please enjoy the view of the sun peeking out after our breakfast though!
While I have no pictures from breakfast, it was definitely an integral aspect of the stay. Buddhists believe that when you die, you must consume all of the food that you took in life, but did not eat. Because of this, alongside the Buddhist emphasis on harmony with, rather than consumption of, the world, Buddhist monks do all in their power to not waste food. Barugongyang is the ceremonial epitome of this.  It is an incredibly ritualized meal at which nothing is wasted. Even the hot water used to clean the bowls (of which each monk has their own set) is drunk. The meal is also eaten in silence so that participants can truly contemplate and be grateful for the nutrition that their body is receiving. I feel like it's almost impossible to convey it, you'll definitely have to try it for yourselves!

The monks' quarters.

A beautiful blue day (it was not even 9 am at this point) and a view of the rocky outcropping that is home to the shrines and the stone Buddha.

The morning view.
After breakfast, we had the option of joining another chanting service, or exploring some of the near-by Buddhist sites. Being me, I chose to explore.


Fall pumpkins sit outside one of the buildings at  Girim Temple (기림사) on the slopes of Mt Hamwol (The same mountain which houses Golgulsa). 

Initially built in 643AD, but later renovated twice at the turn of the 20th century after being burnt down,  Girimsa is a wonderfully colourful temple.

The oldest section. All but the base and lowest tiers of this pagoda are original.

The guardians of the gate. 

The underwater tomb of King Munmu ( 문무왕) 661-681AD.
King Munmu was the 30th King of Silla, and the one responsible  for unifying the three kingdoms (Silla, Baekjae and Goguryeo). He left specific instructions for his remains to be cremated and buried in the East Sea when he died so that he might become a great Dragon and protect his people from Japanese invasions.

Meditating by the sea.

Playing in the surf (very un-zen, I know ;)).

One of the two stone pagodas that are all that remain of King Munmu's Gameum Temple (감은사). The archaeologist in me was like a giggling child exploring the temple layout. Underground space intentionally left so that King Munmu might visit after death in his dragon form. 
Once we felt sufficiently toured, we rushed (also very un-zen) back to the temple in order to catch the special Sunday edition of the Sunmudo demostration.


Sunday edition - Complete with cymbals.  (such a struggle not to type symbols there, though I assure you, the latter were present too!

This was also phenomenal. Perhaps most astonishing however, was their choice of music.
Pachelbel Canon anyone? 

Posing with the master!

Easily one of my favourite experiences thus far, this stay was so totally worth it! Another aspect that I truly loved but did not photograph was our tea time with the monks during which they were open to any questions or discussion. I will say though that only having the one night (especially on a weekend, when training occurs only once a day, and not twice) was not sufficient. I definitely recommend staying for 2 nights (or more?). There were some at the temple who had been there training for nearly a year! May you all feel peace & tranquility this Chuseok weekend, I'm off to bed before I head off hiking this weekend!

Monday, September 24, 2012

Busan! - More than just a Beach.

A few weeks ago, a friend and I decided to take advantage of what was likely to be one the last summer weekends and head to Busan (부산) for some beach time. Although the weathermen (or women?) were calling for rain, Saturday dawned nice and sunny  - okay, so there were a few ominous clouds on the horizon, but we decided to chance it anyhow, and good thing we did because we had a blast!
 
Splashing around at Gwangalli Beach (광안리 해수욕장). I love the way that the city comes right up to the water.

Korea's second largest city, Busan lies along the south-east corner of the peninsula and is famous for its wonderful beaches, great nightlife, colourful architecture and youthful spirit - not to mention having the world's largest department story, the Centum City Shinsegae, and Korea's most famous fish market at Jagalchi. With a perfect mix of small seaside fishing town (depite being the fifth largest container port in the world), elegant boardwalk, urban jungle and hillside cafes, the character of Busan can only be described as charming - if it can be described at all :).

Beach time! Thank you Lawrence for showing us around!
We were lucky enough to not only get some swimming and sight-seeing in, but to also manage to meet up with some of the friends we hadn't seen since our orientation back in February! We Gwangju-ites also used the trip as an opportunity to gorge on some of the Western food (Mmmm, real delicious beach-side patio hamburgers and french fries) that is so scarce in Gwangju.

Cutting through the city much like it does in Daegu, Busan is where the Nakdong River meets the Sea. Across the Nakdong from us is, Centum City Shinsegae, the World's Largest Department Store. It's filled with all the designer boutiques sections you could ever desire. The best part for me by far though was the food court in the basement. Delicious gourmet foods from all over the world at a more than reasonable price. It reminded me more than a bit of Harrods in London in that respect.


The view of Haeundae (해운대) Beach from Dalmaji (달맞이) Hill.
At 2km long and in the heart of the city, Haeundae is easily one of  Korea's most famous beaches. Dalmaji lies at it's the northern end and, in addition to  providing wonderful views of the city, is home to the lovely 'moontain' road hiking trail from which you can observe the moon.  As we were feeling adventurous, we opted for a little night hike. Here is the view from one of the lookout points.

Being somewhat cheap and longing for a nice soak in a lovely hike after our night's expedition, we decided to stay the night at The Vesta, a jjimjilbang up on the hill. It was awesome! Although it boasted smaller pools and less sleeping space than other jjimjilbangs I've stayed in, it not only had a rooftop terrace with an unbeatable view, but a balcony with a heated outdoor pool (encircled with a waist-high fence of course) on both the men's and women's bathing floors -because who doesn't want a lovely view of the city while they lounge in a hot tub in the nude? All jokes aside, it was a great choice. I also got the hands-down best massage I have ever received while there. Cost was 50,000won for full body massage and exfoliation - the latter of which was hilarious since my masseuse's reprimands and tutting informed me that I apparently do not regularly exfoliate myself up to Korean standards (I think she could tell that my last jjimjilbang exfoliation occurred in March). I felt like a small child being scolded for not washing behind my ears! The ladies there were phenomenal though and the massage included a chiropractic adjustment that was better than some I've received from licensed chiropractors!

The morning view over Heaundae.
Sunday did not dawn anywhere near as clear as Saturday had (it was, in fact, tipping it down with rain) , but you can just barely make out the bridge across from Gwangalli in the left side of the photo.

On the way down the hill.

Exploring the Jagalchi fish market (자갈치시장) in the southern end of the city.

Some adorable little shrimplets.

And of course no Korean market could be without red bean fish! I love these. They are essentially  pancake batter filled with sweetened red bean paste. According to my Korean co-workers, you know it's winter again (apparently they don't believe in fall), when the read bean fish stalls come out! 

Our delicious fish fry lunch. Less than 7,000won each.

Ships in the port.

The indoor market. The sleekness of the building belies the chaos that resides inside.

The Busan-ese really like their fish!

Fortunately, so do I!

After enjoying our delicious lunch, it was time to head off toward Beomeosa (범어사).

Beomeo Temple is one of the major urban temples in Korea. The complex itself was built in 678 and dates to the Shilla Dynasty era although many of the buildings are much younger (due to repeated Japanese invasions).



The Pagoda, or the temple's ancient reliquary, essentially a stone vessel for sacred items.

The artwork at Beomeosa is easily some of the nicest I've seen at a Korean temple thus far.

A natural stone slab that was incorporated into the temple.

While the artwork is wonderful, the buildings themselves are not that spectacular. What is breathtaking though is the mountainous setting of the temple - it was especially haunting in the rain.

Over all, it was a lovely weekend. My only regrets are: 1) that we were prevented from hiking Geumjeongsan (the mountain which rises over Beomeosa) and exploring Geumjeong Sanseong (the Three Kingdom's Era fortress at the top) by the rain. We could have done it, but neither of us were all that willing to endure a 3 and a half hour bus ride home in soaked clothing. And, 2) that we didn't make it to Haedong Yonggungsa, a stunning temple built into the cliff-side overlooking the sea. I was desperate to see it before we went, and yet still somehow failed in that endeavor. Hopefully there will be a next time!

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Changdeokgung & Changgyeonggung Palaces, Seoul

Reflections in a rain filled cauldron in the Chimjeon (침전 - King's Bedroom House) area of Changdeokgung Palace

A few weekends ago I managed to make it back up to Seoul to visit Minjung's family and get in some time at the dance studio (happy times!). As the day was gorgeous and I had some free time on the Sunday morning in between parting from Minjung (who had an exam - honestly Korea? exams on Sunday? That's just cruel!) and heading back to the dance studio for more class, I decided to check out Changdeokgung (창덕궁) & Changgyeonggung (창경궁), 2 of the Five Grand Joseon Palaces and the only ones I had yet to see.

I wasn't originally planning to give them their own post, but the beauty of the day, combined with the angles of the scenery made me want to share the photos I took! (and I took a lot!). I'd be hard pressed not to consider these two may favourite of the palaces in Seoul.


On the bridge over the (somewhat dry) moat on the way in to Changdeokgung. Geumcheongyo (금천교) Bridge was built in 1411, making it the oldest bridge in Seoul!

Built by King Taejong in 1412 during a time of political infighting (and because he did not wish to live at the main palace, Gyeongbokgung where he'd had his half-brothers killed). Changdeokgung is the best preserved of the Grand palaces, and the only one listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site. While it was initially built in the 15th century, it had to be rebuilt twice in the 17th when it was burnt to the ground - the first time by the Japanese and the second during a political revolt. Like some of the other palaces, Changdeokgung remained a royal seat until the Japanese takeover of 1910 - and it actually remained the residence of Emperor Sunjong, Korea's last Emperor, until his death in 1926. Unlike the other palaces, Changdeokgung has a rather eccentric layout, built in accordance with the principles of Feng Shui to sit in harmony with the surrounding environment, rather than in the typical Korean or Chinese block pattern layout.


The roof tiles on the buildings in the Chijo (치조 - government) section of the Palaces against a brilliant blue sky.

Doors through doors with the Maebong Peak of Bugaksan (mountain) in the background

Moving into the Royal Section of the Palace.
I love that the palaces sit on huge expanses of parkland in the middle of the city. I love even more that entrance to them is so cheap! (Changdeokgung 3,000won, Changgyeonggung 1,000won).

The Throne Room.
Inside the throne room.
It is widely considered to be the most regal looking of the Grand Palace throne rooms.

The House of the King's Bedroom.

In the Qing-style Nakseondae area.
Built during the 19th century, the style of this section makes it look older than the rest of the palace

Changdeokgung is also home to the 'Secret Garden' of Huwon. Home to lotus ponds and a small library/study pavilion, this is supposed to be one of the major highlights of Seoul. Sadly, entrance (10,000won) is only permitted via group tour and, having to get to class, I did not have time to join one!


Surrounded by more trees and hills, Changgyeonggung seems at once more serene and less opulent than it's larger neighbour. 

Sitting to the north-east of Changdeokgung is the smaller Changgyeonggung palace. Originally built in 1418 by king Sejong, all but the main hall (built in 1616) was burnt down and had to be rebuilt twice - first in the Japanese invasion of 1592 and secondly in a fire in 1830. Greener, less reconstructed and more overgrown than the other palaces, Changgyeonggung is in the running to be one of my favourites. It also has some interesting history as it was the location in which King Yeongjo, with the complicity of his wife, lured his somewhat reportedly unstable and cruel son Crown Prince Sado into a reed basket as starved him to death in 1762 in order to ensure that his grandson Prince Jeongjo, and not his son would next inherit. While somewhat cruel (and history has shown possibly the result of political machinations by Sado's enemies), this seems to have proved a wise decision as Jeongjo was one of Korea's most respected rulers.

One of the empress'/concubines' houses. One of the Emperors was born here.

A lunar observatory.

Changgyeonggung roofs! I loved the mix of restored and unrestored areas.

Ancient and modern. With a couple on the steps.

The three-fold path leading  to Honghwamun, the main gate.

The grounds of Changgyeonggung were turned into fair grounds by the invading Japanese in the early 20th century. Interestingly, while the buildings and zoo where eventually torn down after independence, the botanical gardens still stand.

In one of the greenhouses.

While there is something to be said for the majesty of Gyeongbokgung, the serenity of Gyeonghuigung and the colonial structures of Deoksugung. I think that, after all is said and done, the Changdeokgung-Changgyeonggung complex may represent my favourites of the palaces areas. I just love the mix of beautiful gardens, wide open courtyards and restored and unrestored sections!